Water
Also-called: Aqua | What-it-does: solvent
Good old water, aka H2O. The most common skincare ingredient of all. You can usually find it right in the very first spot of the ingredient list, meaning it’s the biggest thing out of all the stuff that makes up the product.
It’s mainly a solvent for ingredients that do not like to dissolve in oils but rather in water.
Once inside the skin, it hydrates, but not from the outside - putting pure water on the skin (hello long baths!) is drying.
One more thing: the water used in cosmetics is purified and deionized (it means that almost all of the mineral ions inside it is removed). Like this, the products can stay more stable over time.
1,2-Hexanediol
What-it-does: solvent
A really multi-functional helper ingredient that can do several things in a skincare product: it can bring a soft and pleasant feel to the formula, it can act as a humectant and emollient, it can be a solvent for some other ingredients (for example it can help to stabilize perfumesin watery products) and it can also help to disperse pigments more evenly in makeup products. And that is still not all: it can also boost the antimicrobial activity of preservatives.
Dipropylene Glycol
What-it-does: solvent
A clear, colorless liquid that works as a solvent and viscositydecreasing ingredient. It also has great skin-moisturizing abilities.
Gluconolactone - superstar
What-it-does: exfoliant, chelating
- It’s a polyhydroxy acid (PHA), that is often referred to as next generation AHA
- It gently lifts off dead skin cells form the skin surface making skin smooth and even
- In the long term it provides anti-aging benefits, like increased skin thickness and decreased wrinkles (though a tad less than even more proven superstar AHAs)
- It’s a great moisturizer and even helps to repair impaired skin barrier
- It’s antioxidant, and does not make your skin more sensitive to the sun
- It can be used even if your skin is very sensitive, rosacea prone or if you are post cosmetic procedure
Read all the geeky details about Gluconolactone here >>
Spiraea Ulmaria Extract - goodie
Also-called: Meadowsweet Extract, Filipendula Ulmaria Extract | What-it-does: soothing, astringent
The extract coming from the leaves and/or blossoms of Meadowsweet, a native to Europe plant that likes to grow in damp places such asmeadows or the banks of streams.
It's main "skincare thing" is that it contains salicylic acid derivatives that give the extract anti-inflammatory properties. It also hastannins that make Spiraea Ulmaria Extract astringent, as well asspiraeosidethat has anti-cellulitic properties.
Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil - goodie
Also-called: Roman Chamomile Flower Oil | What-it-does: soothing, perfuming
The essential oil coming from the second most common type of chamomile, the Roman Chamomile. It also contains the biologically active anti-inflammatory components,bisabolol, and chamazulene, but less than the more commonly used German Chamomile. It's not clear what Roman Chamomile knows that the German one does not.
Juniperus Communis Fruit Extract
What-it-does: perfuming
We don't have description for this ingredient yet.
Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract
We don't have description for this ingredient yet.
Saponaria Officinalis Root Extract
We don't have description for this ingredient yet.
Salvia Officinalis (Sage) Leaf Extract
Also-called: Sage Leaf Extract | What-it-does: surfactant/cleansing
We don't have description for this ingredient yet.
Viscum Album (Mistletoe) Leaf Extract
What-it-does: soothing
We don't have description for this ingredient yet.
Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Flower Extract
Also-called: Evening Primrose Flower Extract | What-it-does: astringent
We don't have description for this ingredient yet.
Pinus Palustris Leaf Extract
We don't have description for this ingredient yet.
Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract - goodie
Also-called: Ulmus Extract | What-it-does: moisturizer/humectant
A nice plant extract that's used as a traditional oriental medicine in China and Korea. A 2006 study examined the cosmetic properties of thepolysaccharide extract and found a couple of promising things:
The main components of the extract are water-binding sugars, namely rhamnose, galactose, and glucose. After this, it's not very surprising that the extract itself is also a great skin moisturizer almost as good as superstar NMF, hyaluronic acid. But that's not all: the researchers also found that Ulmusextract has promising anti-inflammatory and photoprotective properties. Seems like a goodie plant extract.
Pueraria Lobata Root Extract
What-it-does: moisturizer/humectant
We don't have description for this ingredient yet.
Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Leaf Extract
We don't have description for this ingredient yet.
Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root Extract - goodie
Also-called: Ginger Root Extract | What-it-does: antioxidant, soothing
The extract coming from ginger, the lovely spice that we all know from the kitchen. It is also a medicinal plant used both in Chinese and Ayurvedic medicine for pretty much everything you can imagine (muscular pain, sore throat, nausea, fever or cramps, just to give a few examples).
As for ginger and skincare, the root extract contains the biologically active component called gingerolthat has potentantioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Combined with Bisabolol, the duo works synergistically to sooth the skin and take down redness.
Other than that, ginger also contains moisturizing polysaccharides,amino acids,and sugars, and it is also quite well known to increaseblood circulation and have a toningeffect.
Last but not least, Ginger alsohas some volatile, essential oil compounds (1-3%). Those are mostly present in ginger oil, but small amounts might be in the extract as well (around 0.5% based on manufacturer info).
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Also-called: Fermented Radish Root | What-it-does: antimicrobial/antibacterial, preservative
It's an alternative, natural preservative that comes fromradishes fermented withLeuconostoc kimchii, a lactic acid bacteria that has been used to make traditional Korean dish, kimchi. During the fermentation process, a peptide issecreted from the bacteria that has significant antimicrobial properties.
It is one of the more promising natural preservatives that can be used even alone (recommended at 2-4%), but it's not as effective as more common alternatives, like parabens or phenoxyethanol.
Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Leaf Water
Also-called: Witch Hazel Leaf Water | What-it-does: soothing, antimicrobial/antibacterial, astringent
The distillate created from the leaves of the hazelnut-bush-like-magic-tree commonly called Witch Hazel. The distillate from the leaves is probably the gentlest, most diluted version of any kind ofWith Hazel ingredient.
The leavescontainmuch, much less active componentsthan the bark (4.77% vs 0.04% tannins)and distillates are more diluted than extracts. So this one is probably just a "fancy-water"that resembles the properties of Witch Hazel Extract (astringent, soothing, antioxidant, antibacterial) in a very mild and gentle way.
We have gone into much more details about Witch Hazel here.
Citrus Aurantium Bergamia (Bergamot) Fruit Oil - icky
Also-called: Bergamot Fruit Oil | What-it-does: perfuming
Theessential oilcoming from the fruit (probably the rind) of thebergamot orange.It's acommon top notein perfumes and contains (among others)fragrant compoundslimonene (37%),linalyl acetate (30%) and linalool (8.8%).
A well-known issue with bergamot oil (apart from the fragrance allergens) is that it contains phototoxiccompounds calledfuranocoumarins, but more and more commonlyfuranocoumarin-free versions are used in cosmetic products. Still, if you have sensitive skin and prefer fragrance-free products, bergamot oil is not for you.
Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil - icky
Also-called: Lavender Essential Oil | What-it-does: antimicrobial/antibacterial, perfuming
We have to start by writing how fascinated we are by the amazing lavender fields of Provance and we do love pretty much everything about lavender: its look, its color,its scent.... but, when it comes to skincare, lavender is aquestionable ingredient that you probably do not want in your skincare products.
First, let us start with the pros: it has a lovely scent, so no wonder that it is popular as a fragrance ingredientin natural products wanting to be free from synthetic fragrances but still wanting to smell nice. The scent of lavender isfamous for having calming and relaxing properties and some smallish scientific studies do support that. Inhaled volatile compounds seemto have a soothing effect on the central nervous system and studies have shown that lavender aromatherapy canimprove patient's anxiety and experience in hospitals.
Another pro is that lavender oil has some nice antimicrobial and antibacterial properties. It also has some localpain relieving and muscle relaxing magical powers. Lavender oil is also often claimed to have anti-inflammatory properties. We have found a study confirming this but it was the essential oil of the leaves and not the much more commonly used flowers and the two differ in their main chemical compounds very much. (The main components of the flower essential oil are linalyl acetate and linalool [around 80% the two together] while it is 1,8-Cineole [around 65%] in the essential oil of the leaves.)
Now, let us look at the cons: similar to a bunch of other essential oils, the main components of lavender oilare potentially irritating fragrant components. The two main components arelinalyl acetate (about 50%) and linalool (about 35%) and both autoxidise on exposure to the air forming strong contact allergens. To make things even worse, lavender oil seems to be cytotoxic from concentrations as low as 0.25% (concentration up to 0.125% wereok).
There is also an often cited Japanese study that made patch tests with lavender oil for 9 years and found a huge increase in lavender oil sensitivity in 1997 (from 1.1% in 1990 to 8.7% in 1997 and 13.9% in 1998). This was the year when using dried lavender flowers in pillows, wardrobes, and elsewhere became fashionable in Japan, so it seems that increased exposure to lavenderresults in increased risk of sensitivity.
Overall, it makes us sad to write bad things about such a lovely plant, but when it comes to skincare, you will be better off without lavender.
Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil - icky
Also-called: Rose Geranium Flower Essential Oil | What-it-does: perfuming
Thefragrant essential oil coming from the flowers of Rose Geranium. Like most essential oils, it contains antioxidant and antimicrobial components, but the main ones are fragrant constituents (like citronellol and geraniol). Be careful with it, if your skin is sensitive.
Mentha Viridis (Spearmint) Leaf Oil
What-it-does: astringent
We don't have description for this ingredient yet.
Rose Flower Oil
We don't have description for this ingredient yet.
Glycerin - superstar
Also-called: Glycerol | What-it-does: skin-identical ingredient, moisturizer/humectant | Irritancy: 0 | Comedogenicity: 0
- A natural moisturizer that’s also in our skin
- A super common, safe, effective and cheap molecule used for more than 50 years
- Not only a simple moisturizer but knows much more: keeps the skin lipids between our skin cells in a healthy (liquid crystal) state, protects against irritation, helps to restore barrier
- Effective from as low as 3% with even more benefits for dry skin at higher concentrations up to 20-40%
- High-glycerin moisturizers are awesome for treating severely dry skin
Read all the geeky details about Glycerin here >>
Butylene Glycol
What-it-does: moisturizer/humectant, solvent | Irritancy: 0 | Comedogenicity: 1
Butylene glycol, or let’s just call it BG, is a multi-tasking colorless, syrupy liquid. It’s a great pick for creating a nice feeling product.
BG’s main job is usually to be a solvent for the other ingredients. Other tasks include helping the product to absorb faster and deeper into the skin (penetration enhancer), making the product spread nicely over the skin (slip agent), and attracting water (humectant) into the skin.
It’s an ingredient whose safety hasn’t been questioned so far by anyone (at least not that we know about). BG is approved by Ecocert and is also used enthusiastically in natural products. BTW, it’s also a food additive.
Tromethamine
What-it-does: buffering
It's a little helper ingredient that helps to set the pH of the products to be right. It has an alkaline pH and can neutralizeacidic ingredients.
Octyldodeceth-16
What-it-does: emulsifying
We don't have description for this ingredient yet.
Glyceryl Caprylate
What-it-does: preservative
A 100% plant derived, natural (Ecocert approved) multi-functional ingredient that has emollient and moisturizing properties, can work as a co-emulsifier (meaning that next to other emulsifiers it can help water and oil to mix) and even more importantly has a strong antimicrobial activity.
Thanks to this last thing, it allows a lower percentage of traditional preservative or it might even be able to completelyreplace them.
Ethylhexylglycerin
What-it-does: preservative, deodorant
If you have spottedethylhexylglycerinon the ingredient list, most probably you will see there also the current IT-preservative,phenoxyethanol. They are good friends becauseethylhexylglycerincan boost the effectiveness of phenoxyethanol (and other preservatives) and as an added bonus it feels nice on the skin too.
Also,it's an effective deodorant and a medium spreadingemollient.
